back Crains May 20, 2002 Page 32 Eatery design can say a lot about its taste by: DIANE DiPIERO A long row of windows draws eyes toward the interior of Fire Food & Drink, an upscale restaurant that opened last fall at Shaker Square. Thick duct pipes slither across the ceiling, creating a silvery path around the space. Chrome-and-wood chairs frame cozy tables in the center of the restaurant. A bar at the far end uses liquor bottles as artwork, while the open kitchen along the back wall encourages diners to watch their meals being prepared. The view outside the restaurant is just as intriguing, says chef/owner Doug Katz. ``You can look out the window and see the Rapid go by. There's a very urban feel.'' People have been flocking to Fire not just for the delectable food but also for the atmosphere in which it is served. ``People love it,'' said Mr. Katz, former chef at Moxie in Beachwood. ``They say they don't feel like they're in Cleveland. It's very dramatic.'' At the same time, the interiors are inviting and unpretentious. ``The layout is warm and friendly,'' Mr. Katz said. Like many restaurant owners in the Cleveland area, Mr. Katz understands the significance of restaurant decor. Diners get their first impression of a restaurant by how it looks - not by how the food tastes. ``Design of a restaurant is the most important thing,'' Mr. Katz said. ``We could be serving the most amazing food, but if people didn't feel comfortable, we'd be in trouble.'' The interior design of a restaurant also sets the tone for the meal. In the case of Fire, the atmosphere lends itself to uniquely prepared American cuisine, including ultra-thick steaks and pork chops fire-roasted in a tandoor oven. It also reflects the image of Shaker Square, which gracefully melds early-1900s architecture and modern shops. Working with local architect Bill Mason, Mr. Katz and his wife, Karen, devised a look that is both historic and hip. They removed soffits from the ceiling to extend the height of the room and peeled off seven layers of tile to reveal the original wood flooring. ``There's not much artwork, mostly mirrors,'' Mr. Katz notes. Instead, the focal points of the room become the kitchen, the bar and the view of Shaker Square. A minimal decor also puts a spotlight on the meal. ``The colors are muted enough so that the plate of food stands out,'' Mr. Katz said, adding that the decor is timeless and shouldn't call for drastic alterations down the road. But sometimes change can do even an established restaurant a world of good, as Carl Quagliata, owner of Ristorante Giovanni's in Beachwood, recently discovered. A fixture in the Cleveland restaurant scene since 1976, Giovanni's continually receives accolades for its Italian-inspired fare. (It is one of only a handful of four-diamond restaurants in Ohio.) Although the menu was a classic, Mr. Quagliata thought that the restaurant's interiors were somewhat tired. ``It looked like an old-fashioned restaurant,'' he said. And he was certain that was keeping Giovanni's from expanding its clientele base. ``For the last 10 years, there was not much growth. We weren't attracting the younger crowd,'' he said. To attract new people - and keep existing customers coming - things must be kept fresh. Giovanni's didn't need a metamorphosis: Its Tuscan theme was tried and true, but the interiors begged for more warmth and an enticing setup. The lobby was small. The bar was closed off from the rest of the space. There were no defining areas in the main dining room. Interior designer Paula Jo Boykin of Cleveland's Spectrum Design Services expanded the foyer, bumped out a wall to create a casual dining space near the bar and bathed the dining room in shades of ocher and golden rod and luscious velvet and chenille fabrics. Ms. Boykin convinced Mr. Quagliata to remove a cherished chandelier from the center of the dining room because it made the space feel small. ``We didn't have a lot of (existing) architectural details to work with,'' Ms. Boykin said. ``We added columns and half walls and Tuscan wine racks.'' Rich paneling and a series of Picasso prints establish handsome refinement in a private dining area at the back of the restaurant. The redesign gives Giovanni's a casual elegance that's welcoming. ``There's a subtle way to feel comfortable,'' Ms. Boykin said. ``You want to be surrounded by nice things, and you've got to feel good.'' Diners at Giovanni's have noticed the difference. Since the redesign two years ago, business has increased by about 35%. ``We didn't change the menu. It's just a new feeling,'' Mr. Quagliata said. ``It still feels like a brand new restaurant.'' @@Volume: 23 Publication number: 20 @@Word Count: 765 words