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The Plain Dealer

New Fire a hot ticket for good food

John Long 8/1/01

Red hot . . . Just like its name, Fire opened last Friday night and was smoking from the start. Owner-chef Doug Katz, who previously was chef at Moxie, has hit a bull's-eye with this cosmopolitan bistro at 13220 Shaker Square, Cleveland, that is dishing out excellently prepared food. There are no gimmicks here, just reasonable prices ($16-$20 entrees) and food reminiscent of Northern Italian trattorias and French bistros in its simple preparation.

Most of the food is cooked in either brick or tandoori ovens, the latter of which turns out crispy Indian-style nan that is topped with roasted pepper and garlic aioli. A refreshing gazpacho with a hint of cayenne pepper in this liquid tomato-based salad was a perfect start on a warm evening. A tuna tartare in a martini glass, cubes of raw red tuna bathed in a light mustard cream, and scattered with tiny capers, red onion and chive, showcased the clean flavor of the fresh fish with the piquancy of its accompaniments. Roasted lamb prepared precisely as requested was accompanied by a cheesy polenta gratin and ratatouille. Rather than a stew, the ratatouille consisted of fresh roasted cubes of zucchini and squash. It had a slightly smoky flavor and an al dente texture that was a nice change from the traditional version. Another success was the tender-as-butter duck confit with a crispy skin that sat atop baked peaches and herbed spaetzle that picked up the flavor of the slow roasted duck.

Don't skip pastry chef Heather Haviland's desserts; they are knockouts. Her signature cashew crepe torte, consists of 40 thin crepes interspersed with fillings of cashew butter and whipped cream and adorned with glasslike sugar encased nuts. But the excellent signature dessert was matched by a delicious sweet-tart flavored apricot tart and house-made mace ice cream. If you can grab a couple of banquette seats along the east wall, you will be entertained throughout the evening. The seats give a view to the attractive bar across the room, the open kitchen and entire dining room as well as a view out the wall of windows onto Shaker Square - which last Friday took on the appearance of a tree-lined European square.

Fire is open for dinner only, but it will begin serving lunch Aug. 14 and will add a Sunday brunch Sept. 9. Current hours are 5 p.m. to midnight Tuesday through Saturday and 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday. Reservations are recommended by calling 216-921-3473.